Émulsionnants Naturels

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HISTORY

In Umbria, in the green heartland of Italy, is where the SOCRI Technical Centre operates. It is there that all the research and development of new products and processes are done in order to minimise environmental impact and to reduce the use of harmful substances or eliminate them entirely. It is with these goals in mind that SOCRI has created and perfected two emulsifiers using sesame oil produced in Italy that is rich in unsaturated and polyunsaturated fats (oleic and linoleic acid 40%). It contains an unsaponifiable fraction (1.5%), which guarantees the oil's high stability, thanks to the presence of three natural antioxidants: Sesamol, Sesamolin and Sesamin which are crucial for combating the formation of free radicals. It also contains vitamins, mainly A, E and the B group (B1, B2, and B3), and eight important essential amino acids.
The originality of this project lies is the fact that it has been able to take sesame oil's priceless virtues and transfer them to a range of emulsifiers that modern, effective and safe.

Emulsifier range

Through a sophisticated process of esterification of sesame oil’s fatty acids, SOCRI has created the two emulsifiers that belong to the SESAMULS® family: one for O/W systems and the other for W/O systems.
Both form a lattice of liquid crystals within the emulsion, which makes it possible to easily formulate highly stable systems that perform well and have a pleasant feel.
The eudermic properties of sesame oil make it possible to create emulsions characterised not only by their pleasantly silky and fluid feel, but also by their moisturising and protective properties. The gel-lattice formed by the emulsifier stabilises the system and the cream has TEWL reduction effect.
Numerous studies have shown that liquid-crystal emulsions improve skin hydration over both the short and long term. The percentage of intralamellar water in these liquid-crystal structures can reach up to 70%, and it is immediately available from the moment the cream is applied to the skin and the crystal lattice begins to break down.
Emulsions formulated with SESAMULS® are satiny and shiny in appearance. Although they contain high percentages of lipid phases, they have a novel feel that is soft and dry to the touch. The emulsion’s lattice structure allows it to incorporate large quantities of natural high-polarity lipids without compromising the final stability of the emulsion itself.
It is possible, regardless of the polarity of the lipid phase, to formulate emulsions containing natural oils as their sole source of lipids, thus obtaining completely natural emulsions. 
 

The benefits of liquid-crystal structures made with SESAMULS® are: 
 

  • Stabilisation of the viscosity of the emulsion even in the presence of lipid phases with different polarities

  • A refreshing effect combined with moisturising and protective effects

  • High skin absorption

  • Easy delivery of active ingredients


The ongoing shift towards environmentally-friendly lifestyles has led us to favour the use of substances of natural origin, laying the foundations for a fruitful marriage of modern cosmetic techniques and nature's age-old benefits. A cosmetic can be seen as a multifunctional complex, to which each ingredient contributes, either individually or through its interaction with the others, to providing the product with its functional efficacy and sensory characteristics.

SESAMULS ® O/W

SESAMULS® OW ( INCI: Polyglyceryl-3 Cetyl Ether, Sesame Oil, Succinic Acid) is a “PEG-free” emulsifier that can be used in the formulation of emulsions that are particularly fresh and light, pleasantly velvety to the touch and enriched with the eudermic functional properties of Sesame Oil. Sesame Oil is a raw material that is in harmony with nature, meeting the needs of a market that favours products that are gentle and friendly to both the skin and the environment.

It is made entirely from plant-derived raw materials: 

 

  • Polyglycerol from vegetable glycerin (Eco-certified)

  • Cetyl alcohol (RSPO certified)

  • Sesame oil

  • Succinic acid


The particular bond between the hydrophilic component and the lipophilic chain ensures that the molecule has strong stability and an excellent resistance to hydrolysis. The synthesis does not require the use of ethylene oxide, nor does it use chemical reagents or organic solvents. The raw material is fully dispersible in water. It is able to form liquid crystal lamellar structures without the need for co-emulsifiers and regardless of the chemical nature and polarity of the substances present in the internal phase of the emulsion.
When present at the oil/water interface, the liquid crystals contribute to lending the system rigidity and, by reducing the fluctuation of the components at the interface, they imbue the emulsion with a high degree of stability. The liquid crystal system moisturises and protects the epidermis. It has, in fact, been proven that liquid-crystal emulsions moisturise the epidermis ( Figura 1 ) and protect it by reducing TEWL.

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